From his original sketches to their final engineered forms, Spring Summer 2023 explores a tropical colour palette in eye-catching shades of chartreuse, hot pink, royal purple, cheetah print and turquoise alongside black and neutral shades complemented by the classic elegance of gold or silver-toned hardware. Reflecting on haute couture and the sculptures of Abstract Expressionism, a series of moulded metallic leather and repurposed denim designs comprise the collection’s most daring forms, creating new conversations of gesture and materiality: folding and draping around the foot in hybrid forms accented with silver crystal buttons.

A study of exotic species exemplifies the exuberance of Blooming Flowers, a series of radical ornaments that burst from the heels of elegant strappy sandals. Continuing a colourful exploration of minimalism, pumps and sandals on a softly squared or pointed toe explore the contours of the feet and ankle in myriad ways, from bright elastic cuffs to elegant straps in quilted nappa, metallics, satin and suede. Innovative styles see ankle ribbons thread through a decorative heel ring, or a sheer mesh construction that creates an ultralight ballet pump. Soft glove boots harbour an 80s opulence streamlined for today. The Comet hardware – a new signature polished ‘cabochon’ button – walks a fine line between form and function, in grouped starbursts that create cosmic floral motifs on slingbacks and pointed ballerinas, whilst alone it becomes a delicate jewel interspersed on strappy flats and kitten heels. Embedded with strass, the Comet series is elevated with an extra evening sensuality, sparkling on juicy satins and iridescent leathers.

Bruno Frisoni Autumn Winter 2022/23 'Pumpette' black patent leather pump. Photography by Kenta Umemoto, 2022.
Photographié par Kenta Umemoto, 2022